Winter on the Frendo

Psyche was high. Once again Dan and I had a winter ascent of the Dru north face on our minds. The forecast was perfect, the face in bon con and our skills hopefully up to the task. Then the inevitable happened. Our old adversary, the wind, had decided he was going to visit Chamonix. The…

Cold Couloir

Despite having lived in Chamonix for over three years it’s taken me a while to get round to exploring Cogne, the European ice climbing capital just a short drive from Cham. I guess the usual prime ice season (Jan/Feb) coincides with prime powder season and it can take a bit of willpower to turn down…

Chamonix Summer 2016

Coming into this summer I had a simple plan. I was going to focus on climbing big alpine routes. Smaller, technically harder routes would be put to one side. This would be the summer of smashing out mega classics and getting beastly fit but super weak. To a large extent I did just that. Though I…

The Super Integrale de Peuterey

Take a ride back to 1980 and the era of enchainment alpinism, the linking together of multiple routes in a single push, was about to kick off. Over the course of the next decade Europe’s top alpinists would put in jaw-dropping feats of endurance, enchaining multiple hard routes in a single push, often solo. Some…