M6 Solar

With the Midi set to close for its seven week annual maintenance this Sunday, yesterday Alex and I headed up high to make the most of the quick day-hit alpinism that the lift offers. Our chosen route was M6 Solar, a modern mixed line on Pointe Lachenal. The day didn’t get off to the best start.…

Pellissier Gully

Today Alex and I headed up the Midi to check out Pellissier Gully, a classic mixed route just a short walk away from the lift station. We’d heard the gully was in okay condition so expected to find a bit of ice interspersed with some moderate mixed. To our surprise, we found it in exceptionally fat conditions. Climbing it…

Rebuffat-Terray

Pitch after pitch of perfect snow and ice. Autumn 2014? Nope, yesterday on the Rebuffat-Terray, a classic Chamonix ice and mixed line. Current valley consensus seems to be that ice and mixed conditions are frankly a bit shit. Thinking otherwise, Alex and I decided to head up to give this route a go. Fortunately our hunch…

The Frendo Spur

Chatting over climbing ideas with Joel, he suggested a one day bin-to-bin ascent of the Frendo Spur. I wasn’t sure this was the most sensible idea. Chamonix was in the midst of a scorching heatwave and whilst the rock would be dry, making for quick and fun climbing in the lower section, the snow and…

Afanasieff-Bodin

I’m lucky to live in Chamonix. Home to many world class climbing routes with quick and easy access, its a climbing mecca. The problem is everyone knows this. As a result, climb one of Cham’s popular classic in the summer and you’ll often find yourself jostling for position with several other parties. This can detract from the experience to say…

Eugster Direct

A couple of months ago I wrote down a short list of alpine routes that I wanted to climb this spring. Top of the list was Eugster Direct, an aesthetic 1000m line straight up the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. Yesterday, Pat and I went to give it a go. We arrived at the…