M6 Solar

With the Midi set to close for its seven week annual maintenance this Sunday, yesterday Alex and I headed up high to make the most of the quick day-hit alpinism that the lift offers. Our chosen route was M6 Solar, a modern mixed line on Pointe Lachenal. The day didn’t get off to the best start.…

Tentation

Earlier this week, Alex and I set off to attempt a route called Tentation, a little known mixed line on Pointe Lachenal put up by Jon Bracey and Nick Bullock in the winter of 2006-07. Below is my account of our battle up their line. In homage to Nick’s original trip report (click here), the account is light on useful route-finding beta but…

Pellissier Gully

Today Alex and I headed up the Midi to check out Pellissier Gully, a classic mixed route just a short walk away from the lift station. We’d heard the gully was in okay condition so expected to find a bit of ice interspersed with some moderate mixed. To our surprise, we found it in exceptionally fat conditions. Climbing it…

Rebuffat-Terray

Pitch after pitch of perfect snow and ice. Autumn 2014? Nope, yesterday on the Rebuffat-Terray, a classic Chamonix ice and mixed line. Current valley consensus seems to be that ice and mixed conditions are frankly a bit shit. Thinking otherwise, Alex and I decided to head up to give this route a go. Fortunately our hunch…

Eugster Direct

A couple of months ago I wrote down a short list of alpine routes that I wanted to climb this spring. Top of the list was Eugster Direct, an aesthetic 1000m line straight up the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. Yesterday, Pat and I went to give it a go. We arrived at the…