Col du Tacul, SW Couloir

A nice tour today up to the Col du Tacul then back down via its south west couloir and the Glacier des Périades. The original plan was to drop down the other side and ski the Capucin Couloir, but with the snow seeming so good on the way up it proved too hard to resist just…

Aiguille du Tour, Table Couloir

Following another dump of fresh snow, some sunny high pressure has rolled into Chamonix and with it some excellent conditions for ski touring. After chatting over a couple of ideas with Joel, we ultimately decided to head over to the Aiguille du Tour to check out its Table Couloir. The couloir is a classic of the Mont Blanc massif that neither Joel…

M6 Solar

With the Midi set to close for its seven week annual maintenance this Sunday, yesterday Alex and I headed up high to make the most of the quick day-hit alpinism that the lift offers. Our chosen route was M6 Solar, a modern mixed line on Pointe Lachenal. The day didn’t get off to the best start.…

Tentation

Earlier this week, Alex and I set off to attempt a route called Tentation, a little known mixed line on Pointe Lachenal put up by Jon Bracey and Nick Bullock in the winter of 2006-07. Below is my account of our battle up their line. In homage to Nick’s original trip report (click here), the account is light on useful route-finding beta but…

Pellissier Gully

Today Alex and I headed up the Midi to check out Pellissier Gully, a classic mixed route just a short walk away from the lift station. We’d heard the gully was in okay condition so expected to find a bit of ice interspersed with some moderate mixed. To our surprise, we found it in exceptionally fat conditions. Climbing it…

Rebuffat-Terray

Pitch after pitch of perfect snow and ice. Autumn 2014? Nope, yesterday on the Rebuffat-Terray, a classic Chamonix ice and mixed line. Current valley consensus seems to be that ice and mixed conditions are frankly a bit shit. Thinking otherwise, Alex and I decided to head up to give this route a go. Fortunately our hunch…