Winter on the Frendo

Psyche was high. Once again Dan and I had a winter ascent of the Dru north face on our minds. The forecast was perfect, the face in bon con and our skills hopefully up to the task. Then the inevitable happened. Our old adversary, the wind, had decided he was going to visit Chamonix. The…

The Frendo Spur

Chatting over climbing ideas with Joel, he suggested a one day bin-to-bin ascent of the Frendo Spur. I wasn’t sure this was the most sensible idea. Chamonix was in the midst of a scorching heatwave and whilst the rock would be dry, making for quick and fun climbing in the lower section, the snow and…

Afanasieff-Bodin

I’m lucky to live in Chamonix. Home to many world class climbing routes with quick and easy access, its a climbing mecca. The problem is everyone knows this. As a result, climb one of Cham’s popular classic in the summer and you’ll often find yourself jostling for position with several other parties. This can detract from the experience to say…

Mont Maudit, North Face

The North Face of the Cursed Mountain. Sounds like a pretty terrifying line to ski! In reality Mont Maudit’s North Face is a lot more friendly that its name suggests and makes an excellent summer ski. From the Aiguille du Midi, it takes about 3 to 4 hours to reach the top of Mont Maudit. Once at the summit…

Eugster Direct

A couple of months ago I wrote down a short list of alpine routes that I wanted to climb this spring. Top of the list was Eugster Direct, an aesthetic 1000m line straight up the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. Yesterday, Pat and I went to give it a go. We arrived at the…